![]() I also have a beautiful old slab of Black Butt about 3mtrs long and approx 2ft wide and live edges on both sides. Living in the aussie bush and many years ago working for the local forestry dept I got some beautiful Jarrah s a stunning red hard wood native to West Aus where i live. The written tutorial was great.really thorough thanku. Have just subscribed to your utube channel □ This is not necessary for this type of wood, but it just made me feel better since the bar top would be outside. I repeated this process for the 2nd flood coat.Īfter the bar top cured for 6 days, I flipped it over and sealed the underside with oil and urethane. Then, I used a brush to chop the material to facilitate proper blending.įinally, my torch removed the air bubbles and help flatten out the material. Next, I used a 1/8" square notch trowel to move the resin across the bar top at a consistent depth. I wiped the edge about once per 5 minutes to prevent dripping.Īfter the first seal coat cured, I sanded the entire table with 320 grit sandpaper and repeated the process for the second and third seal coats.Īfter I sanded the final seal coat, I mixed 3 ounces per square foot for the flood coat. Next, I used my torch to remove air bubbles. The purpose of the seal coat is just as the name implies - it's meant to seal the surface.įirst, my wife spread the material with a squeegee back and forth and let a bead of material drip over the edge. There formula for seal coats is 1 ounce per square foot of surface area. ![]() ![]() I poke fun at her in the video, so be sure to watch it. So, I took the opportunity to emphasize the importance of this step in the project. :). I asked my wife to help me on the first seal coat and she was nervous to mess up. ![]()
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